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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. Yet, situated prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.